Cycling the Northern Tier on its 40th Anniversary
Over the past nine months, Cortney and I cycled 7,700+ miles across the country, exploring 17 states, 23 major cities, and countless small towns. We’ve burned through eight tires, two rims, two cassettes, and plenty of brake pads. Along the way, we stayed with 26 amazing Warm Showers hosts and enjoyed endless acts of kindness and memorable stories. And we’ve probably eaten our weight in oatmeal and ramen.
While we love forging our own path and traveling intentionally, we often turned to Adventure Cycling’s time-proven routes for guidance. Cortney and I tackled big sections of the Pacific Coast, Southern Tier, Great Rivers South Trail, and, of course, the Northern Tier. Each route added something special to our adventure, helping make the journey unforgettable.
The Northern Tier , was a standout for us, and this year marks its 40th anniversary. Stretching 4,296 miles from Washington to Maine, it’s known as one of the most scenic cross-country rides in the U.S. Though we only biked a small section from the Twin Cities to North Dakota, the landscape and the people left a lasting impression.
Here’s what made the Northern Tier such a highlight in our journey:
Camping in town parks
Camping in town parks might seem odd if you’re from a big city, but in small towns along the Northern Tier, it’s common—and we loved it. These towns often offer free or low-cost camping, and Cortney and I took advantage of it. In Bowlus, MN, we stayed dry under a picnic shelter during a storm. After battling insane headwinds, we found a peaceful spot to rest in Kindred, ND. And the residents of Hazelton, ND in the midst of preparing for their annual Community Day gave us a campspot, free coffee and oreos for the road. Through it all, the friendliness and hospitality we encountered were amazing.
Art in Motion—Holdingford, MN
There’s a lot of rail-trail riding along the Northern Tier in Minnesota. And that comes with a lot of great places to stop and check out along the way. Like Art in Motion off the Lake Wobegone Trail. (It’s before you get to Bowlus.) The proprietor Greg built up this remarkable place with sculptures on the grounds and some impressive art inside. While he’s never bike toured personally, he loves it and the cyclists who come through. He takes photos of cross-country tourers, lets them camp if they need a place, and gets to know them. He even bought us ice cream. (Thanks, Greg!)
Donn Olson’s Bunkhouse—Dalbo, MN
The Cyclists Bunkhouse is a special place. It’s been a haven for countless cyclists for nearly 20 years. It all started when some road-weary riders stopped by Donn’s home one night and told him he was on the route, and he called Adventure Cycling the next day to get on their map. Since that time, he’s converted his old barn into an awe-inspiring bunkhouse for cyclists. There are numerous rooms with cots and clean sheets. The kitchen is fully stocked with frozen meals, drinks, and every high-carb, high energy snack you can think of. And the pièce de résistance is the outdoor shower—it’s phenomenal. Donn has poured countless hours of love into the bunkhouse, but he also takes joy in sharing maps, talking routes, and helping cyclists. He just met us, but he offered to let us use his truck to drive into St. Cloud to take Cortney’s bike to a shop. Donn is one of those people who enrich your life just by knowing them.
Northern Cycle—Park Rapids, MN
After reaching the Mississippi headwaters in Itasca, we had a mechanical issue about 10 miles from Park Rapids—Cortney’s chain broke, and I didn’t have the right tool. It looked like we’d be hiking into town, but a quick call to the local bike shop changed everything. Neil, the mechanic, came out immediately, picked us up with all our gear, and fixed Cortney’s bike in no time. If that’s not trail magic, I don’t know what is. If you’re ever in the area, do yourself a favor and stop by.
Warm Showers Hosts
Cortney and I stayed with amazing hosts throughout our trip, and our last two were no exception. Both couples were seasoned bicycle travelers (one couple rode nearly every route in the U.S. on a tandem) and shared similar philosophies on life, and found meaningful ways of living beyond the daily grind. Plus, they knew exactly what cyclists need, from rest to food to conversation. We can’t recommend this organization enough, and Cortney and I are excited to start hosting ourselves soon.
Ace of Maids—Little Yellowstone, ND
Camping at Little Yellowstone, we stopped at a remote service station, knowing it would be a while before we saw another. While I was outside with the bikes, an older woman struck up a conversation, sharing stories about the many cyclists who pass through. After a few minutes, she surprised me by handing over a card with her contact information, saying, “I don’t usually do this, but if you and your wife need anything or a place to stay, you’re welcome.” It was a touching reminder of the kindness you encounter, especially in remote places where you don’t know a soul.
The Honey Hub—Gackle, ND
Gackle is a quiet rural town with a bar, a Frosties drive-thru, and not much else—except for the Honey Hub, a gem for cyclists. Donn Olson from Dalbo recommended this place and it’s a haven, offering a finished basement with a bathroom, laundry, Wi-Fi, and a bedroom, all with a private entrance. It runs on donations, and when Cortney and I stayed early in the season, we had it to ourselves. (Past journals mention 20 or more riders camping out on the lawn.) The Hub is also stocked with Honey Stinger products, thanks to the owner’s dad being a partial owner. For cyclists, it’s pure gold.
Cortney and I are extremely grateful that we’ve been able to take this time to travel slowly and intentionally by bicycle. It’s enabled us to see things at a very human pace, noticing things you wouldn’t if you were traveling by car.
We’ve been inspired by the landscapes and beauty this country has to offer. And at the risk of being overly dramatic, the people and profound kindnesses we’ve encountered have literally restored our faith in humanity. The Northern Tier was a key part of that experience–and to ride it during its 40th anniversary was a privilege.
