A Tale of Two Texas Cities

If the Ramble Project is one thing, it’s consistent. We consistently take detours. How else would we find out about New Braunfels’ Wurstfest? (Definitely going to have to make a return trip for that!)

As we headed into Central Texas, it was a good opportunity to ramble off the Southern Tier and explore San Antonio before pedaling up to Austin. Every town or city in Texas is fiercely proud of being Texan, but they’re all very distinct and unique in their own way. San Antonio and Austin were proof of that. Here are a few of our highlights from this stretch:

SAN ANTONIO
Around 1.5 million people live in San Antonio, but it doesn’t feel like it. After 20 miles of urban hiking, Cortney and found it kind of sleepy, slow, and peaceful. And many of the locals would second that notion. Still, there’s a ton of history and awesome things to check out.

The Alamo
This “enduring symbol of American resistance to oppression and the struggle for independence” is a must-see for visitors. Sadly, Cortney and I didn’t find Pee-wee’s bike in the basement.

300+ Years of History
People have lived here forever. Spain, France, and Mexico have all flown their flags over the Lone Star State at one point or another. And it’s reflected in the city’s architecture and historic neighborhoods.

Our ride from San Antonio to Austin took us along farm roads and up into the foothills of the hill country. After staying in the city for a couple of days, we looked forward to breaking things up with a quiet campsite among the oaks. And we found one through Hipcamp. Owners Dot and Reza have 12 acres and are set up for travelers like us to have a tranquil stay. They’ve put a lot of love into their land, making it a great place for people to disconnect, watch the stars, and enjoy nature. It’s a special place. We even had a couple of gray foxes come visit us.

AUSTIN
The state capital borders on the hill country. It’s full of personality and there’s a ton of live music. A friend recently referred to Austin as the Portland of Texas. I think that’s a fair observation.

Cortney and I were excited to get to Austin for a couple reasons. At the top of the list was to get Cortney’s bike serviced. Andrew at Andy’s Bike Shop in Marfa strongly recommended Eastside Pedal Pushers, and we’re glad he did. They were awesome. Our mechanic Zach went above and beyond getting the bikes good to go. Thanks, Zach!

For our first night in town, we had a fantastic stay with M + B at their Eastside home. They welcomed us with open arms and we enjoyed a warm evening in their backyard over a beautiful dinner of venison ribs. It was really cool. Thank you, Warm Showers! Other Austin highlights include:

Barton Springs
This three-acre pool in Zilker Park is the crown jewel of Austin. The water comes from an underground spring with an average temperature of 68-70 degrees. Although we didn’t partake, many people were swimming. In addition to being a great spot to beat the summer heat, the natural spring is also a federally protected habitat for a special salamander. That’s two cool things for the price of one.

Umlauf Sculpture Garden
We met fellow cyclist Chris at a coffee shop and he encouraged us to check out this place out. Located right next to Zilker Park, this museum and outdoor sculpture garden is a fabulous place to take in the works of Charles Umlauf in a garden setting.

The best part of the visit was meeting our new friend Gus. Gus manages the grounds at the gardens. We made a connection immediately and we were both inspired by each other. Gus is carving his own life as a street artist and is teaching himself how to sculpt. We exchanged social accounts and hope that we get to see him again.

The Texas Capitol & the Downtown Neighborhoods
As part of our downtown and Austin Town Lake ride exploring the city, it was tough not to stop and enjoy this capitol. Like much of Texas, it was super impressive.

Special thanks to Texan native and long-time friend NW for all the amazing bike-beer-wine-food recos and local knowledge. It helped make our short time in both cities even more special.

Even though Austin and San Antonio are only separated by 80 (car) miles, they couldn’t be more different. But both are definitely worth your time.

Next up: East Texas and Louisiana.

-Erik