New Orleans: A Place Unlike Any Other

They say the places at the so-called “end of the line” tend to be unique. They attract special types of people and personalities. Places like the Florida Keys or Cape Town come to mind. New Orleans, located near the end of the Mississippi River, certainly fits into this group.

New Orleans is a distinctly American city that is nothing short of world class. Cortney and I had been looking forward to this stretch of the trip, not only to explore its unique character, but also because our son and his girlfriend came out to visit.

While we spent some time on the bikes, for the most part, we traveled by foot and streetcar. So we were able to experience the city’s uniqueness up close and personal. Here are a few things we found that make NOLA such a special place:

The history.
People have lived here since the early 1700s and they have the potholes to prove it. Its first residents were “a colorful mix of Canadian backwoodsmen, company craftsmen and troops, convicts, slaves, prostitutes, and indigents.” And more flags have been flown over the city and Louisiana than any other state in the union. To get to New Orleans, we rode the Mississippi River Trail along the levee into Algiers Point—the city’s second oldest neighborhood—and took the ferry into the city. (Trivia alert: the Algiers ferry is the longest-running ferry in the country.) Our first night, we stayed with wonderful Warm Showers hosts in Bywater and explored a bit. We enjoyed the hauntingly beautiful cemeteries, 300 year-old-churches, and historic homes.

The architecture.
Speaking of the historic homes… our Warm Showers host said “Can you believe the city has all these old homes and they let people live in them?” It’s true. Most dwellings that are hundreds of years old become museums or heritage sites. But not here. French Colonial, Creole cottage, double gallery, shotgun styles, and more are at every turn. Brightly colored, beautiful, highly imaginative, and unique. Some of the homes are pristine, while others are slightly askew thanks to gravity doing its thing.

The diversity.
New Orleans is a true melting pot and has the unique cultural identity to prove it. The French, Spanish, and Italians have all left their mark, as has the city’s dark history with the slave trade. In many of the neighborhoods we walked through, people of all colors and creeds—and of all socioeconomic status—were represented. It didn’t feel as segregated as a lot of other places we’ve cycled through. And that’s pretty cool.

The sense of unity.
We came to New Orleans right after the festive Mardi Gras season. Mardi Gras is a massive deal, of course. Even the schools and offices shut down for the week so everyone can partake. It’s a beautiful thing because all walks of life come together to celebrate something so singularly unique and special. Minus the hand grenades, it’s amazing.

There’s a love for life.
I recently read that the motto of New Orleans is “laissez les bon temps rouler,” which roughly translates from Cajun-French to English as “let the good times roll.” And it seems pretty accurate. Walking around, Cortney and I commented to each other many times how there’s a feeling of not being hurried or stressed. (And it’s not just the drinking in the streets or extreme porch sitting.) It was refreshing.

The food.
A side-effect of New Orleans’ singularly unique culture is its equally unique food scene. Food is a reflection of the melting pot of cultures and what’s available. Bold Cajun flavors and spices are embraced along with what’s in the local area: crawfish, shrimp, Gulf seafood, and rice top the list. We were able to try gumbo, jambalaya, po-boys, oysters, okra, beignets, and more. Even though we didn’t try gator or grab a drive-thru frozen daiquiri yet, it was still awesome.

We only spent a few days in New Orleans, but we felt like we were able to make good ground—even without a car. If Cortney and I ever return, there’s still so much more for us to explore: the music, the nightlife, and the art scene, to name a few. We’re just grateful for the opportunity to see it firsthand and explore a truly unique city with a one-of-a-kind culture.

And last but not least, Cortney and I wanted to give a massive, heartfelt thank you to MD, GR, and Cathy and John who hosted us in Davis for sharing their local knowledge and insights. Their tips and recos were invaluable helping us better navigate NOLA, stay safe, and have a wonderful visit.

-Erik

Up next: Riding into Mississippi and the Natchez Trace.