The American Southwest can be a harsh place. The cycling wasn’t always easy, but we found Arizona to be full of pleasant surprises.
When we arrived in Tempe, Cortney came down with something fast and really wasn’t feeling well. So we changed plans and wisely ended up staying an extra day. While we didn’t get to walk and bike the city like we’d hoped, Cort was able to catch up on some much-needed rest and feel better.
From Tempe, we rode down to San Tan and camped on someone’s farm. They had a bunch of free-ranging chickens, friendly cats, horses, and pygmy goats. It was wild.
The local Arizona wine was a surprise too.
The riding out of San Tan is pretty barren. But stopping at Casa Grande National Monument in Coolidge was a definite highlight. The monument showcases several preserved ancient structures that were built by ancestral Sonoran Desert people. These villagers amazingly farmed the area and used it as a center for trade and then abandoned it about 700 years ago.
It’s all a mystery.
The largest of the structures could be seen miles off in the distance. It was impressive and definitely worth the extra pedaling.
Off I-10, there’s a small town in the middle of nowhere called Eloy. It was probably the last place we expected to find an Indian restaurant. It was called Taste of India and they had a huge TV playing Bollywood music videos. There were also tons of truckers of South Asian decent coming in off the interstate, so you know the place is legit. Well worth the quick stop.
The next night we camped at a beautiful spot outside of Tucson called Picacho Peak State Park. The park is known for its unique geology and the peak itself has been used as a landmark by travelers since prehistoric times.
Random fact to keep in your back-pocket for trivia night: The park is the site of the westernmost battle of the American Civil War. Strange but true.
The mighty saguaros reigned supreme here. We loved them. They are truly majestic.
We had big plans to camp at Saguaro National Park for a couple of days after Picacho. But mother nature had other plans. Rain, and a lot of it. An unseasonably large storm came in, so we made a b-line for Tucson. It wasn’t too far of a ride, but it was challenging with the storm.
On this trip, we’ve pedaled through a lot of rain, especially in Washington. But we haven’t experienced anything as drenching or as cold as the rain in the desert. It was amazing.
And speaking of amazing, we saw the start of a river form in one of the washes. At first, it was foaming and slow moving. It was kind of funny to watch hundreds of discarded big gulps, plastic bottles, and debris be carried off by the small stream. But within minutes, that stream had formed into a raging river and we saw a king-size mattress float downstream. (Not so funny.)
After we dried out, the rest of our stay in Tucson was fantastic. We were impressed with the food, especially this Latin vegetarian place called Tumerico. I had this crazy jackfruit carnitas burrito. It was unreal.
We were also able to put a lot of time in on The Loop. The Loop is a brilliant 131-mile path that cuts through the heart of Tucson and the surrounding communities. Totally car-free. Thank you, Tucson!
In addition to the great bike infrastructure, Tucson had some great beer, too. We especially liked Pueblo Vida and the Tucson Hop Shop. The Hop Shop was especially cool for us because they were so bike friendly.
We also loved Campfire Cycling. They helped us out with a chain issue on Cortney’s Salsa and were super happy to share knowledge about the area and talk bikes. For me, it’s a dream bike shop. (Right next to Bike Touring News.) They’ve got all the perfect bike-geekery gear you need for exploring.
Leaving Tucson, we stopped by at San Xavier del Bac Mission. It was founded back in 1692 and is truly beautiful.
A friend of a friend who lives in Tucson made the trip to meet us there. We were originally going to stay with her, but she wasn’t well at the time, and Cortney and I were still getting over what we had in Tempe. R is an amazing person and her visit was a definite highlight. Thank you for making the trip out to the mission, R! 
Next up: New friends in Green Valley, the Sky Islands, and Bisbee.
-Erik
I’m reading! So fun and proud of you guys! The writing is great, Erik. We miss you, but this adventure of yours is epic!! Sending our best. – Woodleys 🩷
Thank you, Marisa! Appreciate you following along and for all your support. Miss you guys, too. Best, -EO
Erik and Cortney
I was so happy to finally meet you at the Mission. You are an inspiration to me! Lessons I learned from you.
1. Travel with someone you love! You are compatible and have a beautiful loving relationship.
2. A trip like this takes planning ahead and a commitment to the journey.
3. Live in the present. Enjoy each day and be ready for new adventures. Each day requires a travel route and eating and sleeping accommodations, and after that you are free to observe and learn. You have to be flexible!
4. Be a tourist. You are able to see so many sites and meet many interesting people.
5. Share the trip with your family and friends. It is a great vicarious experience for all of us. I will continue to follow your travels.
With gratitude, R, Your Arizona Mom.
Thank you, Rosalie! It was fantastic to meet you as well. Thank you for making the effort to meet us out at the mission. It’s people like you who are making this adventure even more amazing.