North Dakota is a different kind of place. And cycling across it is a different kind of experience. This stretch of the Northern Tier is insanely rural and remote. The rolling sea of grassy hills goes on forever, as do the farms, cornfields, and other row crops. And the north and west winds are truly brutal.
(Who doesn’t love riding into a good headwind?)
According to Adventure Cycling Association, fewer than 1,000 people bike the Northern Tier every year. Many of them bypass or skip North Dakota altogether. A lot of bike people we’ve met along the way have told us:
“North Dakota is boring and windy.”
“There’s nothing out there.”
“North Dakota is dumb.”
“Skip it. Catch the train.”
“Rent a truck.”
“North Dakota is a drive-thru state.”
“That part of the country is stupid.”
“It sucks.”
(Those are all real quotes by the way.)
Some say that difficult roads lead to beautiful destinations. So in that spirit—and in true Ramble Project fashion—Cortney and I gave North Dakota a go, from Fargo to Bismarck to Minot. And we’re glad we did. Here are a just a few of the highlights from this stretch.
The Kindred City Park
As we rode out of Fargo, the relentless west winds were 30+ mph with gusts that nearly blew us off our bicycles. (In fact, they blew Cortney into traffic a few times.) It was a struggle to pedal even 6 mph into the headwinds. It was like riding in sand. We didn’t make the mileage we wanted to that day, and there weren’t any places to stay, so we camped at the kindred City park. The small towns out here let cyclists and travelers camp in their parks. It feels very old school and we kind of love it. This place was clean, comfortable, safe, and free. Plus, the wind gave us a break when we set up camp. And there was a great breakfast spot just down the street. Funny how things work out.
Little Yellowstone Park
We found this nice park just off Hwy. 46, nestled in the hills and valley along the Sheyenne River. Other than the small spring-fed stream that ran through the campground, we couldn’t figure out why it’s named after Yellowstone. In any case, it was a good place to rest—quiet and sheltered from the wind. We did, however, meet Cory. He’s in a heavy metal band out of Fargo and looked the part. He had some great stories about train hopping. Cory’s traveled hobo-style all over the western states in all kind of weather. (I didn’t realize that was a thing anymore.) Talking with him made our stop here more than worth it.
More kindness from strangers
Beyond Little Yellowstone, we met Lori at a service station in the middle of nowhere. Lori is an older woman who lives just off the Northern Tier and sees cross-country cyclists all the time. She usually doesn’t do this (and says she lives in Mayberry times), but she gave us her contact info and told us where she lives. This was a remote stretch and she said to reach out if we needed anything. And the next time we come through we were welcome to stay. Amazing. (She also told me that I have a lovely wife, so it was clear she knew what she was talking about.)
The Honey Hub of Gackle
Several years ago, the Northern Tier route used to run across the northern part of the state. But with the oil boom, those roads were no longer safe for cyclists. Adventure Cycling updated the route and it now passes through Gackle. Problem is, there wasn’t a place for cyclists to shower, eat dinner, do laundry, use wifi, and put up a tent? A local bicycle-loving family (who run a beekeeping farm) saw this and wanted to help. So they turned their finished basement, complete with laundry, a shower, beds, and wifi, into the Hub. Cortney and I were blown away, and so grateful for our stay here—what an amazing place and amazing people. It’s truly an oasis. They say they get about 150 cyclists a year, and during peak months there are sometimes 20 cyclists there at once, camping in the yard. It’s unbelievable.
Bismarck Warm Showers
Cortney and I often talk about how much we appreciate Warm Showers. The people we’ve met along the way have been one of the greatest gifts. We’ve been able to peek in and see how other people live, and experience so many wonderful conversations, meals, and acts of generosity. It’s blown us away. Our Warm Showers hosts in Bismarck, were one of those highlights. This lovely couple has cycled much of what we’d covered on this adventure—and even more. Way more. They’ve completed routes all across the U.S. and Canada. All on a tandem. And at 78, they still ride every day and tour. It’s an inspiration.
One of the many things that came up in our conversation was about the necessity to make things up as you go along. For example, you might not be 100% clear on what you’re next move is. But if you know what you DON’T want or like, that can be a very helpful guide in your decision-making. We liked that.
North Dakota gets a bad wrap. (We get it.) It’s very good at being windy. It’s sparsely populated. It’s not for everyone. But as challenging as it was, we found the landscape beautiful in its own way. We loved the old farms and rickety homesteader buildings. The remoteness of it. We found it supremely peaceful, especially when the wind gives it a rest. And the small town people really make the place. Like a old-timer farmer we met in Napoleon, or the 85-year-old lady who served us coffee in Hazelton and wouldn’t let us pay, or Ron the “unofficial town mayor” who gave us a warm welcome when we came into Gackle.
North Dakota has given us quite the ride. We can’t wait to see what’s next.
Great take on the N Dakota countryside!
Thank you!